Constructed about the middle of the 16^th century by Haji Begum, oldest widow of Humayun (the second Mogul emperor of India, 1508-1556), the Tomb of Humayun is not one of the most famous monuments in India, nor is it one of the most famous monuments in Delhi, even though it is included in many tourist tours.

Nevertheless, this low and massive building, an early example of Mogul architecture, other than signaling the beginning of a new era of construction culminating in the glorious masterpieces of the Taj Mahal of Agra and that of Fatehpur Sikri, is of a singularly evocative fascination. The Moguls had brought from their homeland of Persia to the India that they conquered their love of gardens and fountains in order to build structures, such as this mausoleum, combining severity with oriental splendor. Constructed in the Persian style, it is a massive central structure illuminated by eight arched entrances topped with bulbous cupolas, and surrounded by geometrically-designed gardens.

The wife of Humayun also is buried in this tomb of red and white sandstone and yellow and black marble.

The garden offers refuge during Delhi’s hot spells, and also contains the tombs of the barber of Humayun, as well as that of Isa Khan, the latter tomb being a good example of the Lodi architectural style that appeared during the reign of the Pathan (Afghan) dynasty (1451-1526) immediately preceding the arrival of the Moguls.

Even so, the numerous bodies of Mogul princes buried under the vaults of the mausoleum evoke dark periods. In fact, in September 1857 it was in the tomb of Humayun that the last Mogul emperor, Bahadur Shah, along with his family and followers, took refuge from the English and their atrocities during their recapture of Delhi; the English accused him of having supported the Great Revolt. Major William Hodson brought back to the Red Fort the Mogul emperor, Begum Zeenat Mahal, and their son, Prince Jawan Bakht, to whom he had promised to save their lives. Notwithstanding, the following day the Major personally shot and killed two children and a nephew of Bahadur Shah, after having forced them to strip.

Nevertheless, thoughts turn above all to the singular destiny of Humayun, not at all fortunate despite the meaning of his name ("_______"), during his earthly sojourn. Succeeding to Babur in 1530, he was too trusting of his fellow man, and above all, of his relatives. After a life full of tribulation, nevertheless, he triumphed long enough to consign his empire in 1556 to his son Akbar, the greatest of all Mogul emperors.

In 1530, Humayun fell gravely ill. Begum Guldaban (Princess Body of a Rose), the daughter of Babur and sister of Humayun, wrote that their father offered his own life to Allah in exchange for that of his firstborn son. Humayun recovered, but Babur fell ill. He sought to put his family affairs in order, arranging for marriages for his three children, and then he died.

Challenged by the Afghan generals who had fought beside his father, and opposed by his little brothers, who abandoned him when the time for decisive battles arrived, Humayun was defeated. The most powerful of the Afghans, Sher Khan Suri, proclaimed himself independent sovereign of Bihar, and, after 1536, of Bengal. Humayun was forced to flee to Persia after two defeats (in 1530 and 1540).

Considered by many historians as an inept ruler more dedicated to opium and astrology than to affairs of state, nevertheless, during his lifetime there are many episodes that reveal his generosity and his love for culture, as well as benevolence that he was capable of exciting in others.

Defeated at Chausa, near Varanasi, by Sher Khan, because of the defection of his brother Mirza Kamran, legend has it that Humayun was able to survive because a bhisti (water carrier) inflated his goatskin water bag with air, and offered it to Humayun to keep him afloat during his crossing of the Ganges. The water carrier was amply rewarded, and for a brief period sat on the throne, and gave orders. The tolerant Humayun forgave his three brothers, embracing them, notwithstanding their defection and attempts to dethrone him. In April 1540, after his decisive defeat at Kanaj at the hands of Sher Khan, Humayun abandoned Agra, and withdrew into the west, and Sher Khan crowned himself emperor (Shah) in Delhi.

Usually in ignominious flight together with his family and a few faithful emirs, Humayun never forget his library, along with the other few things he had with him. Persecuted by local princes while crossing the desert of Rajasthan during the torrid summer of 1542, with his desperately thirsty group, Humayun found it impossible to satisfy the wish of his child-bride, Hamida, for a pomegranate. Humayun certainly thought it a good sign when a traveling merchant pulled one out of his sack. Arriving at Humarkot, today in Pakistan, Hamida gave birth to a son, Akbar the Great. The retreat ended in 1544 in Persia, where the elegant Persian culture bewitched Humayun. Leading Persian troops furnished by Shah Tahmasp, the son of Babur took with him two miniaturists, thus founding the Mogul pictorial style. After eight years of war in Afghanistan, with battles interspersed with reunions with his brothers, the nobles of Humayun asked that he put aside his fraternal sentiments. Kamran, imprisoned, was blinded, a central-Asian means of rendering heirs to the throne inoffensive. In the meantime, the reign founded by Sher Shah was in full collapse, and northern India was ready to be re-conquered.

Humayun marched from Kabul, and retook Delhi in 1555. Here he organized his precious books in what today is called Purana Qila ("Old Fort"). In January 1556, after only six months back on the throne of India, Humayun fell, and hit his heat on the stone steps. He finally knew peace. Less than generous is the comment of a chronicle writer: Humayun "made one false step, and left this life just as he had passed the rest of his life making false steps."

From the tomb of Humayun it only takes a few minutes to get to Purana Qila, the fort erected over Indra Prastha, the mythological part of Delhi of pre-historic times of which remains only the name. The fort, erected towards the middle of the 16^th century, includes the mosque of Sher Shah, an excellent example of indo-afghan architecture, and the octagonal two-story building Sher Mandal, the library of emperor Humayun.

Vincenzo Moschini

Bibliography

Edwards, M. "When the Moguls Ruled India." In National Geographic vol. 167, n° 4 (April 1985): 462-493

Fodor’s Guide to India. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1981

Hibbert, C. The Great Mutiny (India 1857). London: Penguin Books, 1978, pp. 314-316

India, a Travel Survival Kit, Hawthorn: Lonely Planet, 1996, p. 227 (Humayun Tomb)

Singh, K. Delhi. New Delhi: Penguin Books, 1990, pp. 301-310